Hand-Dipped Beeswax Candles
This is only my second year making hand-dipped beeswax candles for the holidays, but it is quickly turning into a tradition. One that my daughters enjoy watching and helping me with. And the smell. It’s hard not be happy when you have the sweet scent of honey wafting through the house. This whole project is a really beautiful sensory experience.
A couple tips:
If you don’t don’t have a homemade curtain rod contraption like mine to hang your candles, you can use a drying rack.
Contact your local raw honey source and ask if they have wax available for purchase. Often the prices aren’t as high if you can get in touch with a beekeeper or honey company directly.
While you can clean up wax off your equipment, I find it’s best to have dedicated measuring cups and tools that are used just for making candles so all you have to do is let the wax fully harden before storing it away.
When you get low on wax, make birthday candles! These are especially fun for older kids to make because they get done quick.
Tools/Equipment I used*
Square Braid Cotton Wick #4: https://amzn.to/3nJYSCV
Organic Hemp Wick: https://amzn.to/3cACqpo
Four Pound Pouring Pot: https://amzn.to/3HLQ1Iz
Quart Measuring Cup with Handle: https://amzn.to/3FViDh9
*These are Amazon Links. As an Amazon Affiliate, I earn from qualifying purchases.
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Mini Knit Dish Scrubbies
Like many knitters, cotton dish cloths were among my first real projects as a beginner. I chose the Waffle Knit Dishcloth pattern by Debbie Andruilli to practice my stitches on, and I still use the heck out of those dish cloths even now, though never in my kitchen. Instead, they reside primarily in the bathroom because although I can appreciate a good, full-sized washcloth in the shower, I find all that fabric too cumbersome when trying to scrub dishes in the kitchen sink.
Recently, I pulled out the very last cleaning sponge from a bulk pack, and instead of ordering more, I decided to try something new. I wanted to make dish cloths that could take the place of sponges in terms of size and functionality, but I had to make enough of them that I could grab a fresh one each day or have enough for single use jobs (like cleaning eggs) before tossing them in the wash, and not have to worry about running low at the end of the week before the clean laundry was sorted again.
So I’ve been making these dish cloths en masse, and although they are dead simple to knit, it took a few tries before I landed on my favorite method, so I thought I’d jot down a few notes here in this post to reference for later.
Right now, I’m enjoying making these scrubbies in sets of three, where each set contains a seed stitch, garter stitch and basketweave stitch cloth. I’ve been making a set of three anytime I sit down to watch a show lately, and It’s just enough variety and instant gratification to keep things interesting. Plus, it’s a light, portable project to work on in these summer months, and would make a great gift idea for the holidays or a housewarming present.
Lindsay’s Favorite Mini Knit Dish Scrubbies
Note: I’m using size US9 (5.5mm) needles, but choose your needle based on your gauge preferences.
Hold three strands of worsted weight dish cotton together (I’m using Knit Picks Dishie cotton)
Cast on 12 stitches
Choose which stitch pattern you want to knit, and continue below
For Garter Stitch
Knit 20 rows, or until the cloth reaches your preferred length
Bind off all stitches and weave in ends
For Seed Stitch
Row 1 (Right Side): *Knit 1, purl 1; repeat from * to end of row.
Row 2 (Wrong Side): *Purl 1, knit 1; repeat from * to end of row.
Repeat Rows 1-2 until you have complete 14 rows, or until cloth reaches your preferred length
Bind Off all stitches and weave in ends
For Basketweave Stitch
Step One (rows 1-3): *knit 3, purl 3, repeat from * across
Step Two (rows 4-6): *purl 3, knit 3, repeat from * across
Repeat step one and step two one more time until you have twelve rows
Bind Off all stitches and weave in ends
That’s it! Pile them up in a basket near your kitchen sink, or bundle them up to give away as gifts.
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Simple Sport/DK Weight Socks
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There are so many beautiful sock patterns out there, yet over the past couple years, I find myself repeatedly gravitating toward the method I’m sharing today because they’re simple, quick to make, durable, and most of all they fit my feet well. Every time. Without fail.
So I wanted to share my method for making these here because I’m asked about them often enough that I figured it was time to just go ahead and write a blog post about them. Apologies in advance to those who are newer knitters. If you’re looking for a sock pattern to guide you through the process, this probably isn’t going to be the most helpful of instructions because I’m not a pattern writer and I don’t spell everything out for you, but if you do some research on the basic construction of a sock, this might still be doable.
Another note before we begin: I almost always use US2/2.75mm circular needle for sock knitting rather than DPNs, so I’ll be writing my notes as such. Also, because sock yarn gauge tends to vary, I will often adjust my cast on number by four. So although I wrote the notes below using 52 stitches as the cast on number, I consider it more of a baseline. If the gauge seems light, I’ll cast on 56. If the yarn seems thicker than normal, I’ll go down to 48.
If you make these, I’d love to hear how they worked for you. Also, if you read through my notes and have suggestions or questions for clarity, please don’t hesitate to leave a comment below.
Simple Sport/DK Sock Notes
Using a US2/2.75mm circular needle and two strands fingering weight sock yarn held together, cast on 52 stitches with the German Twisted Cast On method.
Cuff
Divide the stitches so they are distributed evenly in half between each needle. Join in the round, being careful not to twist the stitches, and work 20 rounds K1, P1 ribbing.
Leg
Knit 30 rows.
Garter Heel Flap
For this next section, work only half (26) of the stitches on the needle flat (back and forth) to create a heel flap. The other half of the stitches will be set aside for now, and will make up the top of the foot.
Knit 26 stitches. Turn your work and knit the same 26 stitches until you reach the beginning. Continue until you have 30 rows and 15 garter ridges, ending on a wrong side.
Turn the Heel
(Right Side) Continuing on just the 26 heel flap stitches, knit until you are 9 stitches away from the end. SSK and then knit one. Turn your work so you’re facing the wrong side, and with yarn in back, slip the first stitch from your left needle onto your right needle. Knit until 9 stitches away from the end and SSK, knit one, and then turn.
(Right Side), With yarn in back, slip the first stitch on your left needle to your right needle. Knit until you are 7 stitches away from the end, SSK to close the gap and then knit one. Turn your work so you’re facing the wrong side, and with yarn in back, slip the first stitch from your left needle onto your right needle. Knit until 7 stitches away from the end and SSK to close the gap, knit one and turn.
(Right Side), With yarn in back, slip the first stitch on your left needle to your right needle. Knit until you are 5 stitches away from the end, SSK to close the gap and then knit one. Turn your work so you’re facing the wrong side, and with yarn in back, slip the first stitch from your left needle onto your right needle. Knit until 5 stitches away from the end and SSK to close the gap, knit one and turn.
(Right Side), With yarn in back, slip the first stitch on your left needle to your right needle. Knit until you are 3 stitches away from the end, SSK to close the gap and then knit one. Turn your work so you’re facing the wrong side, and with yarn in back, slip the first stitch from your left needle onto your right needle. Knit until 3 stitches away from the end and SSK to close the gap, knit one and turn.
At this point, all the heel flap stitches have been worked, and you have now turned the heel.
Pick Up Stitches
With right side facing, knit the heel flap stitches. When you get to the end, begin picking up stitches along the side of the heel. Pick up 16 stitches total.
Knit the 26 stitches that belong to the top of the foot.
Pick up 16 stitches along the other side of the heel flap, and place marker if needed to indicate beginning of round.
Gusset Decreases
Arrange the stitches on your needle so that the picked up stitches and the heel flap stitches are on one needle together (needle 1), and the 26 top of foot stitches are on the other (needle 2).
Continue knitting on needle 1 until 3 stitches remain. K2tog, K1. Knit the top of foot stitches/needle 2. On needle 1 again, K1, SSK and then knit until you reach the beginning of the round.
K1 round.
Continue in this way, decreasing the stitches for the gusset at the beginning and end of needle 1 every other row until the number equals the number of stitches on needle 2 (26).
Foot
Continue knitting in stockinette until you are 1 inch away from where you want your sock to end.
Toe Decreases
Make sure you have an even number of stitches on each needle.
Row one: Needle 1: k1, SSK, knit until 3 stitches remain, k2tog, knit last stitch. Needle 2: k1, SSK, knit until 3 stitches remain, k2tog, knit last stitch.
Row two: knit all stitches.
Repeat rows one and two, decreasing every other row, until you have 12 stitches remaining on each needle. Graft the toe closed with kitchener stitch and weave in ends.
Easily Stored Away Chick Brooder Plans
If you’ve seen our homestead video on the arrival of our new baby chicks, you’ll know that Matt put together an awesome brooder to house them until we can get our second ChickShaw built to transfer them out to pasture. I got some messages from folks asking for more details about our brooder, so my husband kindly wrote up some notes which you will find below.
Before I start, let me point out that this design is very much inspired by this brooder from Lumnah Acres, with a couple changes that work better for our situation. Instead of utilizing the interlocking sides from their design, we chose to connect our sides together using hinges and hasps, which allow the main body of the brooder to fold up on itself for easy storage. This also makes it possible to connect two brooders together to extend the space as the chicks grow. We like this because it gives them a little more time to develop before we put them out with our older birds.
We hope to use this brooder many times in the future, and are pleased with how it folds up and can be stored away without taking up too much space.
Please note, the list below contains some Amazon affiliate links. We could earn from qualifying purchases if the links are used, which helps us continue to be able to make posts and videos and all that fun stuff. Thank you for your support. The products listed can also be found at your local home improvement store.
Chicken Brooder Notes
SUPPLY LIST:
• 1x 3/8” thick 4'x8' Plywood Sheet
• 3x 1"x4"x8’ common board
• 8x 2"x3" zinc utility hinges
• 6x 1.5” zinc hook and eye
• 2’x10’ 1/2” hardware cloth
• 2x 2.5” zinc rotating post safety hasp
• Wood glue
TOOLS:
• Circular saw for cutting the plywood
• Mitre saw for cutting the common board
• Impact driver (fancy electric screwdriver) for the hinges and hardware
• Drill with 3/32” bit for the pilot holes for hooks and eyes
• Stapler and staples
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Start by cutting the plywood sheet into four equal sections of 2’x4’
Measure every two feet along the long part of the plywood and make lines across, then use a circular saw to make the cuts.
Clamp a piece of wood to the plywood 1 1/2” outside the cut line to guide the saw so the blade goes straight down the line. Other saws have narrower or wider guards, so the guide should be adjusted so the saw blade falls directly in the center of the marked line.
2. Install a set of hinges on the 2’ edge of the first board.
Space the hinges 2” from each outside edge to help give the brooder maximum strength while standing. These hinges can either fold completely flat, or when folded the other way stop at a 90 degree angle.
Open them so they stop at a 90 degree angle, and screwed them onto the plywood with the angled side facing the floor.
Snug the angled side right against the wood to use as a guide for where to place the hinge.
3. Mate up the next sheet of plywood to the first along their 2’ sides, with the hinge bridging the gap between.
For this hinge, there should be no gap between boards, and the two pieces together should look like a 2’x8’ sheet with a hinge in the middle.
Screw in the hinges. After screwing them in, you will be able to fold the two pieces at the hinge to make a perfect 2’x4’ stack, with the original piece on bottom and the second piece on top.
4. Install a second set of hinges on the top piece of plywood in the stack.
These hinges are to be installed on the 2’ side opposite of where the last hinges were installed, but in the same way as before: 2” spacing from the outside, with a 90 degree downward side snugged against the board.
5. When mating the third sheet, follow the same procedure as with the first, but allow a 3/8” gap between the two sheets.
This is important because this hinge has to bend an opposite direction from the other hinges to form the box, and the plywood needs space to overlap itself. Once the third sheet was installed I again folded it over into the 2’x4’ stack.
6. Install the third set of hinges on the top board in the stack on the 2’ side opposite the second set.
I used the same methods as the last two sets.
7. When mating the final sheet, snug it up to the third board like when joining the first and second sheets.
After screwing the hinges in, fold this last piece on to make, again, a 2x4’ stack. These are the walls of the brooder.
When set on its side and pulled out, it could make a long, 2’x16’ board, and it should now be able to fold into a 4’ by 4’ box.
8. Make it into a box, then install the hasps to allow it to lock closed.
The hasps I bought fold at a 90 degree angle, so I put the base of the hasp on one sheet and had it fold over to match the post on the other sheet.
I also installed these 2” from the tops and bottoms of the boards to match the hinges.
Be careful to install the hasps first, then mark where the posts would go so the hasps would go over the posts when the box closed.
The hasps can be secured over the posts by anything that will go through the hole in the post. I had some spare screws so I used them. I had a secure 4’x4’x2’ box at this point.
9. To make the lid I made two 25”x50” frames from the 1x4x8’ common boards.
Start by cutting two 50” lengths from two of the boards.
Then cut these in half to make four 25” pieces.
From the remaining pieces of boards and the last whole board, cut four 43” lengths.
To make the first frame, place two 43” pieces inside the two 25” pieces to make a 50” x 25” frame.
Use wood glue to join the pieces, and placed three staples across each joint on both sides of the joint for stability until the wood glue dried (if you don’t want staples, you could use a mending plate, or clamp the pieces in place while the glue dries - I’m cheap and was in a hurry).
I made the second frame identical to the first.
10. Attach the hardware cloth to the underside of each frame.
There is no designated underside, so just choose which is top and bottom
Use staples every few inches to attach it.
I tried both rolling the hardware cloth out ahead of time and unrolling it as I stapled, and I think it was better unrolling it as I stapled - it seemed to keep it from wanting to wander around or warp.
The pieces of hardware cloth were 2'x5' and the frames aren’t that big, so once I had the pieces stapled up, I used a pair of snips to cut off the excess.
11. Join the frames using the last set of hinges.
Place the frames side by side with the hardware cloth down, so that they made a 50”x50” box, then attach the hinges so the joint between the two pieces are exactly in the center.
Once it is attached, you can fold it into a 50”x25” stack.
12. Install hooks and eyes to attach the lid to the box.
I did one hook and latch on the front and one on the back, then two on each side.
First I placed the lid on the box so there was about 1” overlap on each side. Because of the hinges and the thickness of the plywood it wasn’t quite 1”, so I just felt until it was even.
I used a 3/32” drill bit to make pilot holes, and placed the hooks directly in the centers of each piece of wood (the 25” mark for each 50” side, and the 12.5” mark for each 25” side).
Then I drilled a pilot hole in the plywood about 1.5” directly below the holes for the hooks. This was approximate because I mostly just tried to guess where to put the eyes so the hooks would catch in them.
Once this was all done, I could latch all 6 hooks and the lid was secure. I figure we’ll leave one side secure and open the other side to access things.
That's it! It provides 16 square feet of space, which should accommodate a maximum of somewhere between 8-32 chicks until they are ready to go out to the coop. We're going to be raising around 25 chicks, so we'll just watch for when/if it starts to get too cramped and then build another one to split the flock into. For about $90 and around three hours of work, it'd be worth it to have another brooder on hand just in case we need it anyway.
A note from Matt on Plywood: I picked the 3/8' plywood because I thought it would be a good compromise between strength, weight, and price. This plywood bows and flexes a little. It is also too thin for all of the fasteners included with all the hardware I bought, so by the time I was done there were a couple dozen pointy ends of screws sticking into or out of the brooder.. I solved this by using a reciprocating saw with a hacksaw blade to shear off any pointy bits sticking out, but it could also probably be solved by buying enough smaller (3/8-inch) screws to replace the screws in all the hardware. Alternatively, a person could buy thicker plywood, 1/2" or more if they like, and not deal with the pointy problem. Thicker plywood would probably also make a stronger box that is less likely to have sides that bow or flex. My issue with this is that I would like to be able to fold everything into a neat 2'x4' stack, tie it together, and put it up on a shelf. I don't know if I'd be able to lift a unit constructed from a heavier sheet. If you use a heavier sheet of plywood, you will need to expand the gap between the second and third pieces to match the thickness of the plywood sheet. This is discussed in step 5 below. You may also have to buy wider hinges for this joint, as the screw holes on the narrow hinges I used barely fit on the wood when I made the 3/8" gap.
Edited to add: We ended up making a second brooder and combining the two, and it worked out really well until it was time to put the pullets out on pasture.
Watch us build the brooder on our vlog here:
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Strawberry-Rhubarb Kombucha
I really like our homemade kombucha. I like everything about it: The giant crocks visibly fermenting in the kitchen, the routine of bottling and refreshing the tea weekly/bi-weekly, drinking a cold one every night and feeling that good bacteria work its magic, and my favorite part of all, experimenting with different flavors for the second ferment. Especially if the flavors are seasonal.
This spring, I just happened to stumble into what I can safely say is my newest favorite flavor for bottling: strawberry-rhubarb.
We just happen to have a rhubarb plant growing in a container in our backyard, and a very small, somewhat neglected patch of strawberries growing in a shady spot near the property line between us and our neighbors. So as I was puttering outside in the backyard with my kids a few weeks ago, getting inspired by all the plants that were popping up in the yard, it clicked to me to try this quintessential spring flavor combination with my kombucha, and it did not disappoint.
I tried it and immediately had to share it with my husband and daughter. And my friends. And they loved it too, and said I could sell this stuff at the store. But I really can’t, because it’s too good not to guzzle down myself. So here’s the recipe. Go forth and make your own.
Strawberry-Rhubarb Kombucha
Ingredients
- 1 cup chopped rhubarb1 cup water1 cup sugar
- All your rhubarb simple syrup
- 2 cups strawberries, fresh or frozen2 cups kombucha
Instructions
The Autumn Quilt
This is the Autumn Quilt, my first-ever attempt at quilting, made during a time when my sewing skills were even more abysmal than they are now. I knew I was coming at this project at a disadvantage, having never taken the time to properly learn how to sew, so I chose not to worry too much about making it perfect. I figured if it held together well enough that I could take it out for picnics, I’d be happy.
I began the process of cutting and paper piecing the hexagons together back in late 2013 with bits of fabric, old pillowcases and sheets I had been collecting from local thrift shops. When I started this project, I remember thinking it would be finished within a few months. I didn't want to "rush" the process. It's laughable to think about that now, as what ended up happening, and what so often is the case with these things is that it was started and well on its way, and then left untouched for over two years. In my defense, this awful abandonment occurred right after I was hired on for a new job that exhausted most of my creative energy, shorty followed by a pregnancy and a newborn. Enough said.
Finally, in January 2016, fresh with the resolution in mind to finish all my longstanding works in progress, I decided to prioritize it. By this time, my daughter was nearly two and just discovering the joys of building forts, so I envisioned the quilt as the perfect play companion for her. This really powered me through the elements of quiltmaking that were holding me back, specifically the binding, which, if you look closely, is actually quite terrible, but it doesn't bother me at all. Perhaps I can go back and replace it someday with a more polished binding, but I honestly doubt I will.
By now, it's been just over a year since calling my first quilt done, and it's one of our most well-loved couch blankets, despite all its flaws. It's the perfect lap size for both my husband and I, and it keeps my daughter nice and cozy whenever she's cold or wants to snuggle up for a movie. Eventually I'd like to incorporate the craft of quilting into my creative schedule and routine. I have visions of naturally dyed quilts on all our beds, the walls, the couches and chairs... And although my technique will improve as I continue to make them, there's something about a patchwork quilt that's obviously handmade and a little flawed that I find completely irresistible.
Roasted Tomato Soup
Hello and good morning! Last month, I posted this image on Instagram with a short rundown of the recipe somewhere in the comments section, and it seems to have piqued everyone's tomato soup-loving interest, so I thought I'd go ahead and formally publish the recipe here for you on the blog. We make this soup several times per year, especially in August and September when we're up to our ears in tomatoes. I highly recommend the best, most flavorful tomatoes you can get your hands on for this recipe because it really lets the flavor shine. Enjoy!
(P.S. This really isn't a food blog, but you wouldn't know by looking at it.)
Roasted Tomato Soup
Ingredients
- 3lbs (8-10 medium sized) tomatoes, rinsed and sliced in half
- 1 medium onion, peeled and roughly sliced
- 6 cloves garlic, left in skins, with rough ends sliced off
- 1/4 cup olive oil
- 2 cups stock or water
- Salt and pepper, to taste
- Sprigs of fresh herbs, like thyme or rosemary
- Cream (optional)
Instructions
Notes
Optional Ideas:
-Add a bell pepper or two, seeded and sliced in half, to the cookie sheet for roasted tomato soup with bell peppers.
-Add herbs like thyme, rosemary, or basil to the simmering pot for additional flavor.
Naturally Sweetened Granola
This recipe for granola has evolved so much over time. A little less honey, a little more maple syrup. A little more cinnamon and salt. More nut varieties, but less dried fruit. Better yet, no dried fruit at all. A tweak here and there documented over time in the Notes app on my phone. It’s a simple enough recipe that I could make it without referencing my notes, except I’ve changed it so much from where it originally was that I want to make sure I follow my own instructions exactly to make the perfect batch. We take our granola very seriously around here.
Matt eats this stuff every morning with a little yogurt. I tend to eat it two or three times per week. He’s a creature of habit, but I like variety. As a result, I don’t often notice right away when the granola is gone, and he’s too polite to say anything until we’ve gone a week or two with an empty jar.
I’m posting this up, my love, so you can make your own batch next time I fail to notice. I’m also posting this because who knows when my phone will fail and I’ll lose the recipe forever. The more copies that are out there, the better.
And speaking of copying recipes, I’ve decided to go ahead and transfer (and update) all of the well-worn and well-loved recipes from my blogspot address to this space. I reference my old blog for those recipes constantly, so I want to make sure I have them here too. I imagine many of them have changed in various ways throughout the years, just as this one has.
Naturally Sweetened Granola Recipe
Ingredients
- 1 cup chopped nuts (raw)1 cup chopped seeds3 cups rolled oats1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon1/4 teaspoon salt, or to taste1/3 cup maple syrup1/4 cup honey3 tablespoons coconut oil, melted
Instructions
Notes
Optional add-ins: roasted flax seeds or other roasted seeds, dried coconut, dried fruit, chocolate.
Spiced Chai Concentrate
I’ve been thinking a lot about the kinds of posts I’d like to share with you on my blog now that I’ve started up again. I’ve never been one to stick to a single topic, though I know I’d probably get more “engagement” that way, but I have to think about why I’m sharing what I’m sharing, and my strongest motivations are personal. I post because I want to remember moments in time, favorite recipes, garden projects, house projects, adventures we take as a family… I can’t tell you how many times I’ve reference my own blog to pull up an old standby recipe, or to try and figure out which plants did well in the garden in previous years. I mean, when it comes down to it, maybe I just blog because I have a really bad memory, and this helps me keep track of the things I’ve done in my life.
In any case, I know for sure that I want to share all the recipes I turn to again and again, and especially those that are seasonally inspired. Sometimes it’s hard to remember what I like to do with the food we harvest when I’ve got baskets and baskets of it staring me right in the face. It can get pretty overwhelming in those moments, so it helps to have a list of favorite recipes in a centralized location I can turn to.
Some of the recipes I’ll be sharing, like this recipe for spiced chai concentrate, are recipes I’ve already posted on my old blog, but I want to bring them here and perhaps talk about how they have evolved over time or how they’ve been used in our household.
For instance, this chai concentrate recipe is one I’ve made every year since discovering and posting about it back in 2011. I usually make it in fall when the weather turns cool because the transition between summer's heat and autumn's wind and rain can be abrupt here, so it’s nice to cup your hands around a cozy beverage for warmth. Plus, the warm spices that flavor the tea are very autumnal.
Over the years, I’ve tapered off my use of refined sugars, so I tend to use honey exclusively as my sweetener rather than a combination of honey and brown sugar. If I make this for guests, I still use the brown sugar, though, because I know most people aren’t as accustomed to the strong flavor that the honey gives off when it’s used on its own.
I also play around with different milks. You really need a rich, thick milk to cut the flavor of the concentrated tea to make this beverage really work, so I tend to stick with goat or cows milk, or I’ll use homemade almond milk because I can ensure that it’s nice and creamy. Soy milk would probably work, too, though I’ve never tried it.
Spiced Chai Concentrate
Ingredients
- 4 cups water
- 1 stick cinnamon, broken in pieces
- 1 3-inch piece of fresh ginger, thinly sliced
- 7 whole cardamom pods
- 2 whole star anise pods
- 10 whole cloves
- 10 peppercorns
- 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg
- 1 teaspoon orange zest (or a couple strips of orange peel)
- 10 teabags or 3 tablespoons loose black tea
- 1/2 cup brown sugar or honey
- 1 tablespoon vanilla (optional)